The fortified churches around Viscri keep no museum hours: the key- someone in the village. Why autumn's the best time to go, who opens the door, what the tower's for, and when to arrive so the light's still on your side
A few weeks each autumn the stags roar, and a still valley carries it for a kilometre. When the rut happens in the Carpathians, where to stand, how to behave at the forest edge, and why hearing it is the point.
The month the mountain stops forgiving: what hiking gear to pack for a Carpathian ridge walk in October, from the layering system and boots to what goes in the pack and when to turn around.