
Viscri and the Saxon villages: fortified churches and working farms
Two or three villages in a day, with the people who still hold the keys. Lunch is at a farm, not a restaurant.

Fortified churches and working farms, visited with the people who still hold the keys.
A scatter of Saxon villages north of Brașov, each built around a fortified church. The Saxon population largely left after 1990; the villages that survived did so on farming and, latterly, on visitors who come in small numbers.
We visit two or three in a day, with lunch at a farm, and we go with the people who hold the church keys rather than around them.

Two or three villages in a day, with the people who still hold the keys. Lunch is at a farm, not a restaurant.

The fortified churches around Viscri keep no museum hours: the key- someone in the village. Why autumn's the best time to go, who opens the door, what the tower's for, and when to arrive so the light's still on your side